More actions
John Hache (talk | contribs) Safety |
John Hache (talk | contribs) Mix ratios, cure times, assorted minor fixes |
||
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
This information is based on the coaster workshop run by Christoff Epp. Members can add more details (especially tips and tricks please!) as required. | |||
===Safety=== | ===Safety=== | ||
Fumes - epoxy emits fumes, mould release is aerosolized, and isopropyl alcohol emits fumes. The LifeBreath ventilator runs automatically, and you should consider wearing N95 mask when spraying mould release. | Fumes - epoxy emits fumes, mould release is aerosolized, and isopropyl alcohol emits fumes. The LifeBreath ventilator runs automatically, and you should consider wearing N95 mask when spraying mould release. | ||
Fire - members can use a torch to remove bubbles. Make sure there's nothing flammable nearby, hold the torch away from the benches and walls, and stay in the area for 30 minutes to watch for signs of fire. | Fire - members can use a torch to remove bubbles. Make sure there's nothing flammable nearby, hold the torch away from the benches and walls, and stay in the area for 30 minutes to watch for signs of fire. | ||
Laceration - epoxy edges will be extremely sharp when removed from the mould, especially the top surfaces and interior holes. Use extreme caution when removing parts from moulds and round over the edges with sandpaper or a router as soon as possible. | |||
Skin damage - epoxy is bad for your skin, as is isopropyl alcohol. Wear gloves at all times. | Skin damage - epoxy is bad for your skin, as is isopropyl alcohol. Wear gloves at all times. | ||
Eye damage - epoxy can splash when pouring and mixing. Wear goggles to protect your eyes. | Eye damage - epoxy can splash when pouring and mixing. Wear goggles to protect your eyes. | ||
If you get epoxy on your skin or eyes, flush thoroughly with water for 15 minutes. | If you get epoxy on your skin or eyes, flush thoroughly with water for 15 minutes. | ||
| Line 24: | Line 27: | ||
Silicone mats are available for small projects. For larger projects or if there is a risk of dripping (shaky hands, natural human messiness) you can also cover the workbench with plastic wrap. | Silicone mats are available for small projects. For larger projects or if there is a risk of dripping (shaky hands, natural human messiness) you can also cover the workbench with plastic wrap. | ||
If you get epoxy on the work surface, do not panic. Either use isopropyl alcohol to clean it immediately, or | If you get epoxy on the work surface, do not panic. Either use isopropyl alcohol to clean it immediately, or if it has dried you can use a chisel to carefully scrape it with the blade nearly parallel to the table. | ||
====Cleaning - Isopropyl Alcohol==== | ====Cleaning - Isopropyl Alcohol==== | ||
| Line 39: | Line 42: | ||
North Forge has three types of epoxy available for members to buy: | North Forge has three types of epoxy available for members to buy: | ||
'''UVPoxy''': Quick-curing epoxy used for small pours (up to ¼” deep). Pot time is 30 minutes, | '''UVPoxy''': Quick-curing epoxy used for small pours (up to ¼” deep). Pot time is 30 minutes, cure time is 48 hours. It is mixed in a 1:1 ratio. How clear is this? How much will it cost? | ||
'''SPR''': Used for medium pours (up to 1.5” deep). Pot time is 4 hours, cure time is | '''SPR''': Used for medium pours (up to 1.5” deep). Pot time is 4 hours, cure time is 2-3 days. It is mixed in a 2:1 ratio. How clear is this? How much will it cost? | ||
'''FlowCast''': Used for deep pours (up to 3”). Pot time is 8 hours, cure time is 3-7 days. How clear is this | '''FlowCast''': Used for deep pours (up to 3”). Pot time is 8 hours, cure time is 3-7 days. It is mixed in a 2:1 ratio. How clear is this? How much will it cost? | ||
Judging the amount of resin to mix is very difficult. It's also more difficult to mix small amounts of resin, so it's a good idea to prepare more than you think you will need. For this reason, Christoff recommends preparing a secondary project to use up any extras. Examples of good secondary projects include coasters, keychains, and jewellery. | Judging the amount of resin to mix is very difficult. It's also more difficult to mix small amounts of resin, so it's a good idea to prepare more than you think you will need. For this reason, Christoff recommends preparing a secondary project to use up any extras. Examples of good secondary projects include coasters, keychains, and jewellery. Christoff has also supplied several "wine butler" moulds (used for holding both wine glasses and assorted cocktail snacks in one hand, leaving the other free for gesturing, hand-shaking, and other assorted social activities). | ||
====Pigment==== | ====Pigment==== | ||
| Line 51: | Line 54: | ||
====Buckets==== | ====Buckets==== | ||
Empty header? Costing and usage? | It is technically possible to reuse buckets/cups that have been used for clear epoxy, however buckets are so cheap that it's usually not worth it. The 5 gallon buckets are the exception. | ||
Empty header? Costing and usage? Ask Christoff for details until this is filled out. | |||
====Mold Release==== | ====Mold Release==== | ||
Mold release is very important to get good results and preserve the molds for future use. ALWAYS USE MOLD RELEASE on anything that will touch resin (except for the table/working mats). | Mold release is very important to get good results and preserve the molds for future use. ALWAYS USE MOLD RELEASE on anything that will touch resin (except for the table/working mats). | ||
==== Costs ==== | |||
Epoxy costs $0.30/mL (for all types?). Each job will also have a $2.50 surcharge to cover things like mould release, gloves. Costing for pigments and buckets? Ask Christoff for details until this is filled out. | |||