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John Hache (talk | contribs) Detailed instructions |
John Hache (talk | contribs) Safety |
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===Safety=== | ===Safety=== | ||
Fumes - epoxy emits fumes, mould release is aerosolized, and isopropyl alcohol emits fumes. The LifeBreath ventilator runs automatically, and you should consider wearing N95 mask when spraying mould release. | |||
Fire - members can use a torch to remove bubbles. Make sure there's nothing flammable nearby, hold the torch away from the benches and walls, and stay in the area for 30 minutes to watch for signs of fire. | |||
Skin damage - epoxy is bad for your skin, as is isopropyl alcohol. Wear gloves at all times. | |||
Eye damage - epoxy can splash when pouring and mixing. Wear goggles to protect your eyes. | |||
If you get epoxy on your skin or eyes, flush thoroughly with water for 15 minutes. | |||
===Things You Shouldn't Do=== | ===Things You Shouldn't Do=== | ||
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It’s important to protect the workspace before you start. Dust can affect your project, as can non-level work surfaces. Additionally, dried epoxy will damage the work surface over time. | It’s important to protect the workspace before you start. Dust can affect your project, as can non-level work surfaces. Additionally, dried epoxy will damage the work surface over time. | ||
Currently, it is not possible to level any of the workbenches at North Forge. It’s a good idea to check the surface with a level before starting. If the bench is not level, you may decide to use shims underneath your | Currently, it is not possible to level any of the workbenches at North Forge but they will be levelled shortly. It’s a good idea to check the surface with a level before starting. If the bench is not level, you may decide to use shims underneath your mould. | ||
Silicone mats are available for small projects. For larger projects or if there is a risk of dripping (shaky hands, natural human messiness) you can also cover the workbench with plastic wrap. | Silicone mats are available for small projects. For larger projects or if there is a risk of dripping (shaky hands, natural human messiness) you can also cover the workbench with plastic wrap. | ||
If you get epoxy on the work surface, do not panic. Either use isopropyl alcohol to clean it immediately, or allow it to dry and use a chisel to carefully scrape it with the blade nearly | If you get epoxy on the work surface, do not panic. Either use isopropyl alcohol to clean it immediately, or allow it to dry and use a chisel to carefully scrape it with the blade nearly parallel to the table. | ||
====Cleaning - Isopropyl Alcohol==== | ====Cleaning - Isopropyl Alcohol==== | ||
Epoxy can be cleaned using isopropyl alcohol. Do note that isopropyl alcohol will | Epoxy can be cleaned using isopropyl alcohol. Do note that isopropyl alcohol will irritate your skin and eyes, and can ruin your project if you spill. For that reason, if epoxy spills on the outside of your mould, it’s best to let it dry and carefully remove it when done. How can you get it off if you spill on the outside of the HDPE moulds? Not OK to use chisels, can you bang or flex the mold slightly to remove? | ||
=== Material preparation === | === Material preparation === | ||
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North Forge has three types of epoxy available for members to buy: | North Forge has three types of epoxy available for members to buy: | ||
'''UVPoxy''': Quick-curing epoxy used for small pours (up to ¼” deep). Pot time is 30 minutes, cure time | '''UVPoxy''': Quick-curing epoxy used for small pours (up to ¼” deep). Pot time is 30 minutes, What is the cure time? How clear is this? What is the ratio? How much will it cost? | ||
'''SPR''': Used for medium pours (up to 1.5” deep). Pot time is 4 hours, cure time is (2 days?). How clear is this? What is the ratio? How much will it cost? | '''SPR''': Used for medium pours (up to 1.5” deep). Pot time is 4 hours, cure time is (2 days?). How clear is this? What is the ratio? How much will it cost? | ||
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====Buckets==== | ====Buckets==== | ||
Empty header? Costing and usage? | |||
====Mold Release==== | ====Mold Release==== | ||
Mold release is very important to get good results and preserve the molds for future use. ALWAYS USE MOLD RELEASE on anything that will touch resin (except for the table/working mats). | Mold release is very important to get good results and preserve the molds for future use. ALWAYS USE MOLD RELEASE on anything that will touch resin (except for the table/working mats). | ||
How do members record consumables? | How do members record consumables? Unclear right now. | ||
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To mix A and B parts, mix slowly until the swirls disappear. Be careful not to over-mix. Keep the paddle near the bottom of the bucket to avoid mixing in air, and avoid the sides of the bucket to avoid chipping and mixing in bits of plastic. | To mix A and B parts, mix slowly until the swirls disappear. Be careful not to over-mix. Keep the paddle near the bottom of the bucket to avoid mixing in air, and avoid the sides of the bucket to avoid chipping and mixing in bits of plastic. | ||
Please do not use communal paddles to mix pigmented resin. | Please do not use communal paddles to mix pigmented resin. Note that the A and B parts can sometimes separate if left to sit for too long. | ||
Note that the A and B parts can sometimes separate if left to sit for too long. | |||
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==== Molds ==== | ==== Molds ==== | ||
The Ecopoxy room has a a number of | The Ecopoxy room has a a number of moulds available for use. Some are supplied by Ecopoxy/North Forge, others are supplied by our resin expert Christoff Epp. Note that if you damage any mould, you will be required to replace it. If you damage one of Christoff’s moulds, you will no longer be allowed to use them. Never use chisels or metal scrapers on any of the moulds. | ||
There are two types of common | There are two types of common moulds: HDPE and silicone. HDPE molds are rigid and are best for simple shapes like rectangles and circles (coasters, slabs, etc). Since they are rigid, they are more difficult to de-mould. Silicone moulds are more flexible and are better for more complex shapes. They also may wear out more easily than HDPE moulds, and can attract dust through static electricity. Other mould options are available including ones that are made by sealing the sides of the project; consult Christoff for advice if you’re not sure what to use. | ||
Some molds may have discoloration along the edges. This is OK and will not affect your project, it’s caused by | Some molds may have discoloration along the edges. This is OK and will not affect your project, it’s caused by mould release that is not touched by resins. | ||
=== Bubbles === | === Bubbles === | ||
Mixing and pouring resin naturally introduces bubbles into epoxy. Some materials may also have trapped air that will be released when the project is submerged. | Mixing and pouring resin naturally introduces bubbles into epoxy. Some materials may also have trapped air that will be released when the project is submerged. | ||
Bubbles can be removed by torching, using a vacuum degasser, or tapping/vibrating the | Bubbles can be removed by torching, using a vacuum degasser, or tapping/vibrating the mould (may be challenging and is more of a last resort). | ||
=== Pre-use Checklists === | === Pre-use Checklists === | ||
* Gloves are worn | |||
* Mask is prepared for use when spraying mould release | |||
* Goggles are prepared for use when pouring and mixing | |||
* Mould release has been applied | |||
We might add more info here soon. | |||
===Releasing=== | ===Releasing=== | ||
If you’ve remembered to use mold release, most objects will come out very easily. If you’ve forgotten to use | If you’ve remembered to use mold release, most objects will come out very easily. If you’ve forgotten to use mould release with HDPE molds, you may be able to remove your object but it will probably take extreme violence. Do not drop HDPE moulds on the table as they will damage the table. Instead, wear hearing protection and hit the bottom of the mould with a hammer using as much force as possible. | ||
===Random Tips and Tricks=== | ===Random Tips and Tricks=== | ||