Editing Instructions:Ecopoxy Workstation (section)

=== Consumables Information ===
====Resin====
North Forge has three types of epoxy available for members to buy:

'''UVPoxy''': Quick-curing epoxy used for small pours (up to ¼”  deep). Pot time is 30 minutes, cure time is 48 hours. It is mixed in a 1:1 ratio. How clear is this? How much will it cost?

'''SPR''': Used for medium pours (up to 1.5” deep). Pot time is 4 hours, cure time is 2-3 days. It is mixed in a 2:1 ratio. How clear is this? How much will it cost?

'''FlowCast''': Used for deep pours (up to 3”). Pot time is 8 hours, cure time is 3-7 days. It is mixed in a 2:1 ratio. How clear is this? How much will it cost? 

Judging the amount of resin to mix is very difficult. It's also more difficult to mix small amounts of resin, so it's a good idea to prepare more than you think you will need. For this reason, Christoff recommends preparing a secondary project to use up any extras. Examples of good secondary projects include coasters, keychains, and jewellery. Christoff has also supplied several "wine butler" moulds (used for holding both wine glasses and assorted cocktail snacks in one hand, leaving the other free for gesturing, hand-shaking, and other assorted social activities).

====Pigment====
There is no specific way or formula to get a certain shade out of epoxy – you will have to experiment, use your judgement, and develop your own recipes.

====Buckets====
It is technically possible to reuse buckets/cups that have been used for clear epoxy, however buckets are so cheap that it's usually not worth it. The 5 gallon buckets are the exception.

Empty header? Costing and usage? Ask Christoff for details until this is filled out.

====Mold Release====
Mold release is very important to get good results and preserve the molds for future use. ALWAYS USE MOLD RELEASE on anything that will touch resin (except for the table/working mats).

==== Costs ====
Epoxy costs $0.30/mL (for all types?). Each job will also have a $2.50 surcharge to cover things like mould release, gloves. Costing for pigments and buckets? Ask Christoff for details until this is filled out.



==== Mixing ====
Mixing is usually done in two buckets: the first for mixing the two parts, and the second for pigments. Does Christoff also suggest pouring into a second bucket for clear (ie to prevent unmixed epoxy from going into the project)? When pouring from one container to the next, do not scrape the sides as that is where unmixed epoxy will gather.

It is not possible to reuse the first mixing bucket. It may be possible to reuse the second mixing bucket, however the low cost of buckets means it is usually not worth the effort (unless using 5 gallon pails).

To mix A and B parts, mix slowly until the swirls disappear. Be careful not to over-mix. Keep the paddle near the bottom of the bucket to avoid mixing in air, and avoid the sides of the bucket to avoid chipping and mixing in bits of plastic.

Please do not use communal paddles to mix pigmented resin. Note that the A and B parts can sometimes separate if left to sit for too long.


==== Fixturing ====
Many materials will float in epoxy and must be held down with clamps or other objects. Christoff has supplied a dovetail clamping fixture for members to use. Do not clamp directly onto the workpiece; instead, use HDPE blocks or other objects as a spacer. Don’t forget to spray anything that touches the epoxy with mold release before use. Also consider that you may need to use a torch to remove bobbles once the object is clamped in place. Some objects will react very poorly to being torched so consider that fact when choosing your fixturing method. 

==== Molds ====
The Ecopoxy room has a a number of moulds available for use. Some are supplied by Ecopoxy/North Forge, others are supplied by our resin expert Christoff Epp. Note that if you damage any mould, you will be required to replace it. If you damage one of Christoff’s moulds, you will no longer be allowed to use them. Never use chisels or metal scrapers on any of the moulds.

There are two types of common moulds: HDPE and silicone. HDPE molds are rigid and are best for simple shapes like rectangles and circles (coasters, slabs, etc). Since they are rigid, they are more difficult to de-mould. Silicone moulds are more flexible and are better for more complex shapes. They also may wear out more easily than HDPE moulds, and can attract dust through static electricity. Other mould options are available including ones that are made by sealing the sides of the project; consult Christoff for advice if you’re not sure what to use.

Some molds may have discoloration along the edges. This is OK and will not affect your project, it’s caused by mould release that is not touched by resins.