Editing Instructions:Ecopoxy Workstation (section)

===Random Tips and Tricks===
====General====
Dust is not usually a problem for pigmented projects, but it will show up in clear projects. Surface dust can sometimes be removed with a planer.

Always bypass the SawStop when cutting epoxy – it will set off the SawStop and you will have to pay for the new blade and cartridge.

When pouring in multiple phases, there are two options: either pour the second layer when the first is still slightly tacky, or wait until the first pour is cured then scuff with sandpaper. If you try to pour epoxy on a smooth cured layer, it will not stick.

Do not let epoxy get above 26 degrees. Use an IR thermometer when doing deep pours, and if it starts to heat up too much you can use a fan to lower the temperature. 

You can laser-engrave epoxy, but it usually doesn’t produce good contrast. Instead, it will produce a frosted white appearance like when lasering acrylic.

It is also possible to use the CNC equipment to cut epoxy, but the fine dust will cling to all surfaces due to static electricity. In this case, you will have to do a cleanup immediately after the cut is complete, then return the next day to clean the remainder that was previously stuck to all surfaces but has since fallen.

When pouring from a jug, you should hold the jug with the opening towards you and pour over the top of the jug. This will prevent glugging.

====UVPoxy====
It is possible to over-mix UVPoxy, which causes micro-bubbles that cannot be removed. If this happens you will need to scoop out the epoxy and start over.

====SPR====
You can let SPR sit for a short time to heat, which will decrease the viscosity and make it easier to pour.

====FlowCast====
It’s sometimes a good idea to let FlowCast sit for 2 hours after mixing large quantities. Doing so will allow bubbles to rise to the top, plus the exothermic reaction decreases the viscosity and makes it easier to pour.